The 11 Most WIRED Watches That Dropped at Watches & Wonders 2025

President Donald Trump’s tariffs bombshell this week (complete with a levy seemingly aimed astatine a fewer 1000 penguins connected distant Antarctic islands) landed close successful the mediate of Watches & Wonders, the sprawling Geneva commercialized amusement that brings unneurotic Rolex, Patek Philippe, TAG Heuer, Cartier and a panoply of different large players successful the Swiss luxury ticker industry—an manufacture that has abruptly recovered itself facing a 31 percent import taxation successful its biggest and astir important market.

In 2024, America accounted for one-sixth of the planetary Swiss ticker market, which is atrocious quality considering the ticker manufacture has already been warring a important downturn. Whether the dollar prices connected this leafage stay intact for agelong is presently anyone’s guess. The elder ticker executives WIRED questioned astatine the amusement were unwilling to connection immoderate remark connected the record, and 1 big-brand CEO had nary thought the tariff announcement was imminent.

Still, portion immoderate factories person reportedly been moving connected fractional clip successful caller months, the caller watches connected show this twelvemonth offered plentifulness of caller ideas and groundbreaking designs. Here's our prime of the week's caller releases.

Rolex Land-Dweller

For an manufacture which inactive relies connected centuries-old mechanical principles, the luxury ticker world’s innovation obsession tin look anachronistic. But the Land-Dweller from Rolex is simply a genuine flag-in-the-ground moment, dressed up successful a funky, integrated-bracelet plan that harks backmost to the 1970s and the brand’s 1 classical quartz ticker of the era, the OysterQuartz.

Calibre 7135, the motor that powers it, replaces the lever escapement—the 270-year-old instrumentality that converts mechanical vigor into adjacent pulses that thrust the hands—with a caller operation Rolex has named “Dynapulse.” All the escapement parts are made from silicon, pivoting astatine precocious frequence astir a equilibrium unit (the cardinal stem of the hairspring/balance instrumentality oscillator) laser-etched from a caller benignant of ceramic.

The advantages successful accuracy, daze absorption, and stableness volition beryllium hardly noticeable to most; but the anticipation of a semipermanent roll-out crossed the accumulation lines of the world’s biggest watchmaker—and the replacement of the astir important and finicky parts with endlessly replicable silicon components—may good beryllium game-changing, and travel stacked with patent applications. Plus, the Land-Dweller, disposable successful alloy with a achromatic golden bezel, successful roseate gold, oregon successful platinum, with sizing options astatine some 36 mm and 40 mm, means there’s an wholly caller household of Rollies for the flippers to combat implicit and the A-listers to flex. Expect plentifulness of both. From $13,900

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria

Vacheron Constantin’s “Solaria” ultra-grand complication is, successful nary tiny feat, the astir analyzable wristwatch ever made. It packs successful 41 complications—including chiming features, calendar displays, a split-second chronograph, and an array of astronomical indications—that are displayed connected some sides of the watch. Overlaid by a star-chart dial, the split-seconds chronograph tin adjacent beryllium utilized to cipher the clip it takes for a peculiar prima oregon constellation to travel into view. It took 1 watchmaker 8 years to plan the watch, for which Vacheron is taking orders—no terms details, but expect it to beryllium to the tune of millions. We’re each successful the gutter, aft all, but immoderate of america are looking astatine the stars.

TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph

Just arsenic TAG Heuer returns arsenic Formula 1’s timing sponsor, its legendary plastic-cased, battery-powered ticker from the 1980s is backmost back back—now solar-powered, enlarged and upgraded. Now cased successful castor-based bioplastic, and with a question incorporating Citizen’s star tech (via a Swiss subsidiary), it’s a fun, poppy and thoroughly modern instrumentality connected the ticker that kicked disconnected TAG Heuer’s modern-era success. Find retired precisely however they revived this iconic portion here. Steel-cased models with integrative bezels are disposable to all, portion assorted full-plastic multi-colored editions volition look arsenic constricted runs coinciding with antithetic Grand Prix races. From $1,800

IWC Big Pilot’s Shock Absorber Tourbillon Skeleton XPL

Developed from a conception ticker announced a fewer years ago, the Shock Absorber is designed to defy precocious impacts and g-forces—in a Cambridge University lab, it survived impacts of 10,000 g’s. Cased successful IWC’s ceratanium (a ceramic/titanium mixture), it houses the movement—which successful this lawsuit means a skeletonized tourbillon, a ticker complication that increases accuracy by countering the effect of Earth's gravity connected the equilibrium instrumentality and spring—in a cantilevered outpouring mounting made of bulk metallic solid (BMG), which absorbs shocks without disturbing the mechanism. $210,600

Tudor Pelagos Ultra

While the Black Bay is Tudor’s dapper (if dive-watch-inspired) generalist wristwatch, the Pelagos is its hardcore sibling, and it conscionable got hardier still. Rated to 1,000 meters successful depth, the Ultra is simply a purist deep-sea diving watch, with an upsized 43-mm lawsuit successful titanium, enlarged, high-contrast dial markings, and aggravated luminescence, including infinitesimal and hr hands successful bluish and greenish lume, respectively, for other visibility successful the depths. But its coolest diagnostic whitethorn beryllium its bracelet, which has a spring-loaded accelerated accommodation strategy for changing lengths, and a luminous denotation of its mounting connected the clasp. $5,950

Patek Philippe 6159G Perpetual Calendar

The perpetual calendar with a “retrograde” day manus (indicating the day on an arc implicit the dial) is 1 of Patek Philippe’s astir classical looks, dating backmost to 1937. But it gets a modish makeover present with a semi-transparent dial successful acheronian grey revealing the workings of the question beneath. The dial is created by applying a metallized coating to a sapphire crystal surface, and past removing worldly with a laser, creating a shadowy effect with a gradient that intensifies towards the edges. $117,000

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive UFA

Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive technology, which fuses mechanical watchmaking with a quartz-driven oscillator is simply a modern watchmaking marvel. Using a tiny complaint driven by the mainspring, it produces a neat, fluid glide successful the seconds hand, and results successful accuracy of astir +/-15 seconds a period (which works retired arsenic astir 4 times amended than Rolex’s Superlative Chronometer standing of +/-2 a day). On a yearly basis, then, mean Spring Drive is close to astir 3 minutes a year.

But its recently announced upgrade connected the tech, which Grand Seiko is calling Ultra Fine Accuracy (UFA), is close to +/-20 seconds a year. That's comparable with high-accuracy physics watches. It’s accomplishment is owed to a three-month process Seiko has developed for aging the quartz crystals, on with a thermo-compensation strategy and vacuum-sealed oscillator and sensor to support against biology factors. It’s recovered successful a handsome summation to the brand’s Evolution 9 collection, disposable successful either titanium oregon platinum, with a dial inspired by snow-covered trees. From $10,900

Hublot Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic

While ceramic-cased watches successful assorted shades of zirconium oxide person go a fashionable diagnostic of high-end watches successful the past decade—and peculiarly truthful astatine Hublot, which has its ain in-house materials laboratory—combining antithetic shades of ceramic is simply a overmuch bigger challenge. That’s due to the fact that antithetic shades execute otherwise successful the high-heat sintering process involved. So far, the two-tone bezels of Rolex’s GMT Master watches person been the main examples of this being achieved successfully, but Hublot’s “Magic Ceramic” Big Bang takes things further. The grey bezel and bluish cylinder dots are made separately and past fused successful the furnace, which is overmuch trickier than it sounds. Limited to 20 pieces, it’s a pointer to much originative uses of ceramic successful years to come. $33,000

Ulysse Nardin Diver AIR

This is the world's lightest mechanical dive watch, truthful Ulysse Nardin claims, arsenic the marque has supposedly managed to region arsenic overmuch arsenic imaginable from its caller diver to marque it timepiece successful astatine a featherweight 52 grams connected the wrist (46 if you region the elastic cloth strap). The Diver [AIR]—yes, the brackets are intentional—has a operation of titanium and c fibre offering up 200 meters of h2o resistance. The sides of the case, including the lugs, are made from recycled sportfishing nets and upcycled c fibre called Nylo-Foil. The caller caliber, UN-374, further reduces heft with, among different trimmings, titanium bridges that person been chopped successful width and hollowed retired successful the center. The extremity effect is that, wrong the case, the Diver [AIR] is seemingly 80 percent aerial and conscionable 20 percent movement. Despite this, it's inactive capable to withstand a 5,000-g impact. $38,000

Bovet Récital 30

Furthering the method achievements of Bovet's superb world-first world-timer, the Récital 28, 1 of our picks from past year's show, the Récital 30 again tackles 1 of the biggest challenges of accepted world-timers: daylight redeeming time. The 28 was powered by a question delivering an awesome 10-day powerfulness reserve, and was housed successful a 46.3-mm lawsuit to spell with its adjacent $757,000 terms tag.

Here, Bovet's Récital 30 features the aforesaid clever world-timer strategy with its 24 metropolis rollers, but with a much streamlined attack acknowledgment to a titanium lawsuit that is 42 mm and 12.9-mm heavy (the powerfulness reserve is present down to 60 hours). The 2 o’clock pusher rotates each roller by 90 degrees, automatically adjusting each 24 clip zones. The 4 o’clock pusher advances the cardinal 24-hour satellite dial by 1 hour. This roller strategy allows accommodation to immoderate of the 4 yearly UTC periods: UTC Coordinated Universal Time; AST, American Summer Time; EAS, European and American Summer Time; and EWT, European Winter Time. Even New Delhi, with its 30-minute offset, is accounted for. Pricing is yet to beryllium set, but it volition beryllium “more accessible” than the Récital 28—though inactive precise overmuch aimed astatine the luxury consumer.

Oris Big Crown Diamonds

Oris's Big Crown is simply a classical of its range, and has been 1 of the brand's astir fashionable pilot's watches since its merchandise successful 1938. Having evolved with the times, the models successful the caller postulation proceed this ethos, and galore are lauding the caller Big Crown Pointer Dates with their colorful dials, but present astatine WIRED we were taken with the decidedly chic and wearable 34-mm Big Crown Diamonds with 12 lab-grown diamond hr markers. £2,500/$3,220