Kayu is pushing the bounds of Filipino cooking, with inspired results

★★ (Very Good)

Each buoyant, oil-tanned doughnut astatine Kayu is piped afloat of achromatic truffle cream, draped successful prosciutto and capped with curls of smoked cheddar. Salty and sweet, peaty and intense, this is cook Paolo Dungca’s telling of an ensaymada, traditionally a tiny loaf of brioche baked until aureate and topped with butter, sugar, and grated cheddar oregon mildly nutty queso de bola. Here, the baked pastry is replaced by a bombolone, a fried and filled doughnut nodding to enforcement cook Julie Cortes’s clip spent cooking Italian nutrient successful Manila.